The roads to Seillans are many and all choices lead to a wonderful introduction to the varied colors, flavors and fragrances that will be our backdrop for the coming days. We leave the hustle-bustle of the Cote d’Azur behind as we follow winding roads deeper into the rock and oak covered hills and gorges of the Loup and Ceylon river drainages. Along the way we can sample wonderful confectionery delights at the Confisserie Florian at the lower end of the Gorge du Loup. Afterward we ride above the gorges to the cliff-side village of Gourdon, where we are treated to the varied fragrances produced in nearby Grasse. Grasse is the self-proclaimed perfume capital of the world and what a wildly fragrant world it is indeed. (The more direct route to Seillans passes thru Grasse itself). Leaving Gourdon we continue our pleasant ascent into the pine forests of Andon. From Andon we glide down, down to Mons before our final secluded roadway into Seillans. 

 

The roads are highlighted with stops in the hilltop villages of Bargemon and Tourtour. Along the way we descend the Gorges du Chateaudouble and climb thru a forest of scrub oaks, before pedaling amid vineyards on the way to our secluded hotel. The first fragrances of the harvest will stimulate our senses as we lounge poolside in the afternoon sunlight.

 

 

The vineyards of the area beckon to be explored and enjoyed, so we have short loop rides planned to the village of Cotignac.   The route begins with a gentle rolling ride thru wheat fields and oak forests to the wine growing region near Entrecasteaux, where we will wind our way thru vineyards ready for harvest. The village of Cotignac has a wonderful tree shaded plaza where you can enjoy a typical mid-day meal at one of the numerous cafes. Also of note is the ancient cliff-dwellings that you can reach only by foot. There is an amphitheatre with views of the dwellings that is also used for concerts.

 

 

Today’s ride is a wonderful “ridge-surf” all the way to our picnic lunch. The roads are smooth and the hills are small as we quickly ride to Varages, where we’ll stop in a pottery/ceramics shop famous throughout the world as Faiance style.   From Faverges we ride thru wheat fields and vineyards to Rians, where we first glimpse Mont Victoire. A winding descent thru scrub oaks brings us to our picnic spot, where we feast on fresh produce, tapenade, goat cheeses, fresh baguettes and delicious pastries presented to you by our helpful staff. The final kilometers into Aix-en-Provence are dominated by the ever changing views of Mont Victoire; immortalized in the paintings of Cezane and others. Gradually the quiet roads thru vineyards and farms yield to the more urban fringes of this university town and cultural focal point of Provence. Here is where the Provencal style sprouted and flourishes today. Enjoy!!

 

Aix-en-Provence is a great town for exploring and shopping, so we have a late departure (after lunch) arranged today.   We will pack our bags and get ready to leave, but remain in our walking clothes for exploring the cathedrals, galleries and market.   After lunch we will ride together out of town to the smaller quiet roads that we enjoy as we leave Mont Victoire behind and climb over a ridge into the Luberon.  

 

The village of Lourmarin is a wonderful stopping place for a mid-afternoon ice cream before the climb up to Bonnieux with views of the Luberon region; made famous from the writings of “A Year in Provence”.   Here we preview the riding options of the next day as we take the more direct route across the Luberon to Gordes. 

 

 

Today we explore the many hilltop villages of the Vaucluse; an area known for rich textures, brightly colored shutters and fascinating history. The longer route circumnavigates the entire Vaucluse region, while the shorter route takes us to the source of the Sorgue River. And of course there myriad options to explore. Enjoy!!

 

 

Today we leave the Luberon and Vaucluse regions as we ride along the slopes of the imposing Mt Ventoux. The lavender was harvested long ago, but the vineyards are alive with activity as the grapes are brought into the wineries by the truckload.   Riding over the Col du Murs we take one last look over the Luberon before dropping into the Cotes du Rhone wine producing region.  Bedoin will be our lunch with great views of Mt Ventoux, before continuing on to Vaison-la-Romaine. Vaison-la-Romaine (literally Vaison the Roman one) is filled with artists and artisans, historical amphitheatres, century’s old chapels and buildings and a Roman bridge. Fortunately the ride today is short, so you will have ample time to explore the town or relax by the pool overlooking the newer part of town. 

 

 

Today is a great day for sampling wines, selecting your favorite Provencal fabrics, purchasing herbs or gifts for friends and family. Walking thru Vaison or riding the wine route; either way you will have an enjoyable day.    The wine route traverses most of the major Cotes du Rhone wineries in the villages that lend their names to delicious red wines ; Gigondas, Chateauneuf du Pape, Vacqueyras, Sablet, Cotes du Ventoux and dozens more lesser known vintners on this wonderful loop.

 

 

Today we ride around the north side of the mountain on quiet roads with great views of Mt Ventoux. Along the way we’ll take a little deviation from the valley road up and over the Col des Aires. An early lunch or late morning café is appropriate here for enjoying the dramatic view of Mt Ventoux from a different perspective. 

 

 

 

There are many roads to choose from today, so we offer one of our favorites. Gently rolling terrain with good pavement and ever changing views as we leave Mt Ventoux behind and ride toward the Haut-Provence region. Once again, we are treated to fields of wild flowers, early signs of fall and fresh tilled fields prepared for winter wheat. Manosque is a trading hub of the Durance river valley, so we will linger here for two nights to enjoy a local market and explore this walled city. 

 

 

 

The ride today is on small roads leading to small villages overlooking gorges with chateaus perched on the edge. This is a ride far from tourists, a ride that takes us back to the roots of Provencal life where farmers meet in town to sell their produce and patisseries supply the lifeblood of France (the baguette). No real dramatic topography, just good riding on quiet roads. 

 

Or, spend the day wandering inside the old walls of the city, enjoy a Provencal lunch or lounge by the pool. 

 

Today we continue our travels east and higher into the Haut-Provence region across the Valensole plateau to the charming village of Moustiers; famous for fine porcelain. The route crosses the Durance river before climbing onto the Valensole plateau from the spa town of Gréoux-les-Bains along the Verdon river.   We ride along rock cliffs overlooking the Verdon river, as we wind our way from village to village on the way to the plateau.  Once we reach the plateau we are rewarded with great views of the Alpes-Maritime and now dormant fields of lavender. Eventually we ride high above the Lac de St Croix before descending from the plateau to the foot of Moustiers-St-Marie. 

 

 

Moustiers-St-Marie to Castellane is truly an amazing ride as we traverse the north edge of the Grand Canyon du Verdon.   We pass thru scrub oak forests, lavender fields and ride on roads carved in vertical walls of rock. The color of the water flowing thru the Verdon Canyon is almost surreal; almost turquoise in color it is unique to the Verdon river as a result of minerals upstream. We will ride high above the river along the corniche road to observe goats climbing the rocky hillsides. Near the top of the climb we will stage a delicious cliff side picnic where we can watch rock-climbers testing their skills on vertical walls.   Finally, we cycle upstream along the Verdon river past numerous “swimming holes” on our way to Castellane.

 

Castellane is on the Route Napolean, so during the tourist season it is very busy. During early fall in September it will be quiet and pleasant to visit. This is likely your last good opportunity for purchasing Provencal fabrics and wines before packing your bikes for your return to the states. The small church perched on top of a cliff behind town is a wonderful hike; offering great vistas of the village below and the gorges to the south. 

 

This is our final day of riding as we return to our starting hotel in Vence. What a great day it will be as we climb an almost forgotten mountain road, view a stunning gorge, travel where sheep and goats are beginning to move from the high country to the lower valley meadows and have lunch on the Mediterranean side of the rocky mountains known as the Alpes-Maritime. Of course, there are always additional options for those desiring a little more riding or more shopping for a special souvenir. Finally, we view the Cote d’Azur from the top of the Col du Vence, before an exhilarating descent to poolside at our hotel.