IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE HISTORY, CASTLES, AND GORGEOUS TOWNS OF THE THIS HIDDEN GEM OF CYCLING ADVENTURE. ENJOY STUNNING SCENERY AND QUIET ROADS, WHERE CARS ARE RARELY SEEN. CLIMB THE CLASSIC BALONS OF THE REGION AND DINE ON THE AMAZING WINES AND CUISINE OF THE FRENCH ALSACE.
SEPTEMBER 9 TO SEPTEMBER 21, 2024
The many medieval castles and the Renaissance houses lining the flower-bedecked roads of its picture-postcard villages are what make the 170km long Alsace Wine Route the best-known of its kind in France. It was officially recognised as a tour route in 1953 and in 2013 we were there to celebrate the 60th anniversary, enjoying unique traditions and wines. Prompted by a conversation while tasting delicate white wine of Alsace this year we are offering a unique opportunity to cycle the Route des Vins and visit Paris during a 2 week holiday. Paris is just a 2 1/2 hour TGV ride from Alsace, so we created a 10 day version of our multi-week Alsace tour to allow time to catch a fast train to the city of romance. You may choose to visit Paris before or after our Alsace cycletour.
Stretching from the canal linking the Rhin and Rhone to the Mosel on the flanks of the Vosges mountains lays the incomparable Alsace. The broad valley cradled between the Schwarzwald (Black Forrest) to the east and the Vosges to the west was formed millennia ago from a clash of tectonic plates to expose minerals and geology ideally suited for the delicious grape varietals we now enjoy as gewurztraminer, riesling, cremont, etc etc. Vineyard and historic trade roads comprise the routes of our cycle tour thru the Alsace; with some 1000 producers along the way, the Route offers a magnificent perspective of the region and its winemakers. The houses, inns, eateries and wineries along our route will entice your senses to linger just a bit longer with each twist in the road. Welcome to the Alsace.
Looking out the window as your plane descends into the Rhine valley you will glimpse the vast tapestry of vineyards, wheat fields, canals, rivers, forests, hills and villages. The sheer number of options is at once staggering yet energizing to immerse ourselves into the culture and history of a very special land. The places we will explore and enjoy are sure to change your perspectives on permanence and change for a culture that has enjoyed prosperity and endured war to produce Nobel Prize winners, life changing inventions, gastronomical delights and artistic treasures. Alsace has something for everyone.
The route that we will follow is best viewed as an outline to the story of the Alsatian way of life. Beginning in the north, the gently rolling hills of the Alsace vineyards will ease us from our normal daily routines into a more relaxed and less hurried pace. The Port du Vins Nord, Marlenheim, becomes our introduction to the Route du Vins. And the Route des Cretes and Ballon des Alsace will inspire you with stunning vistas and twisting roads high above vineyard filled valleys.
The 170km Route du Vins with over 100 villages is the backbone of our daily riding choices; options that include vineyards, forests, museums, cathedrals, climbs or meandering cyclepaths. The principle towns of Mulhouse and Colmar are essential to our appreciation and understanding of Alsace; each are featured outings from our quieter stayover locations. The richness of possible experiences prompted us to create a unique point-to-point loop of Alsace; we ride point-to-point from the outskirts of Strassbourg and return to our start near Mulhouse by bike.
SEPTEMBER 9 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 21, 2024
BELOW IS A SAMPLE ITINERARY AND MAY VARY FROM OUR ACTUAL TRIP.
SEPTEMBER 9 ARRIVAL INTO BASEL, SWITZERLAND
EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (BSL)
Bartenheim will be out start/finish hotel location for Alsace-Vosges 2024 tours. It is located a short drive from the Basel airport in the middle of farmlands, but close to the big city of Mulhouse too. We have a few suggested cycling routes for “shake out the legs” rides the next couple of days before boarding the train to Obernai. And if you are interested in exploring a bit of Germany’s Schwarzwald region, then you can use cyclepaths to cross over the Rhine to join radwegs (cycle paths).
Day 2 – Bartenheim to Obernai
After a leisurely breakfast, we load bikes on the van while you board a train from Bartenheim to Obernai. We will meet you in Obernai at Hotel la Diligence where we have several loop rides planned for the rest of the day.
Day 3,4 – Obernai-Rosheim loops
Rosheim- The centerpiece of Rosheim is the XIIth century Church of Saints Peter and Paul. It is architecturally pure, meaning that over the centuries great care kept the original form and functions of the church intact. The church exemplifies Romanesque Art with dimensional balance, very basic geometric shapes, shaped as a Latin cross oriented East/West. The orientation is also mirrored in the layout of Rosheim’s dominate city gates, the School Gate and the Town Hall Gate. Interesting details about the church: Bells-are perfectly tuned with the bells of a second church; Organ-was finished in 1733 as the last creation of André Silbermann; Sculpture in the round was created here for the first time in the Rhine valley. This summer the 16th Road of Sacred Art is featured in 10 churches of the Alsace region; Rosheim features the artist Anina Gröger’s work using clouds to express inspiration, power, peace, liberty. Other villages participating in the Sacred Art expositions along our route are: Ribeauvillé and Sigolsheim.
Natzwiller- History lovers may want to visit the Natzwiller Concentration Camp and Struthof Memorial where you will learn of French Resistance Fighters against the Nazi Detention and Deportation in Alsace. The memorial and museum is the only one of its kind located on French soil. This is a very well presented history and chronology of the events surrounding the Nazi occupation of Alsace. However, it is a somber reminder of the atrocities performed before any of us were born. For those interested in a visit, we will provide a van shuttle.
Barr- A stroll up into the vineyards above the protestant church is rewarded with beautiful views of town. And of course, a walk thru the old buildings of Barr reveals numerous wine tasting opportunities too
DAY 5 – Obernai to Riquewihr
Vineyards and villages theme continues with a series of quaint picturesque villages nestled among vineyards at the base of the Vosges mountains. This is a beautiful route, but since it is a bit congested nearing Selestat we deviate into the mountains for the final 10km to our hillside hotel. Again, a leisurely breakfast is encouraged before our departure.
DAY 6 – 7 – Numerous loop rides
Just 11km away lies Haut Koenigsbourg where Kaiser Wilhelm II of Hohensollern refurbished the castle in grand style. So an excursion to view and learn the history of this castle overlooking the entire Alsace valley is the plan for the morning. We will return to the hotel in time to change into cycling gear and descend to Bergheim where we resume our travels along the Route du Vins. We are entering the proverbial epicenter of Alsatian wine village cuteness as we ride thru Bergsheim, Ribeauvillé, Hunwihr on small vineyard paths before dropping into Riquewihr. Like San Gimignano in Tuscany, Ribeauvillé in Alsace is the focal point of tourist visits that we need to see to appreciate its colorful charm.
My personal favorite of these villages is Hunawihr where another stork refuge exists at the lower edge of town. This is the quietest of the villages too. Not to be missed are the medieval archways of Riquewihr; possibly an ideal location for lunch or early afternoon wine tasting.
Perhaps you want to ride into the hills after your visit to Ribeauvillé. Well…we have a nice little climbing option that takes us into the hills above town and toward Sainte Marie-aux-Mines. The road may be a bit busy at first, but after we turn left toward Aubere to climb over the Col de Freland the serenity of forest and field returns. The final few kilometers from Freland into Kaysersberg are along the stream that powered linen and flour mills years ago.
First mentioned in 1227 when Henry VII, son of Frederick of Hohenstaufen, bought the castle. The Thirty Years War (1618-1648) stopped its economic expansion after the French Revolution. The town was badly damaged during the battle for liberation in December 1944, but the reconstruction gave Kayersberg a new impetus which has led to its current position as one of Alsace’s greatest assets.
The birth home of Dr. Albert Schweitzer needs to be explored and enjoyed without thought for time. The museum honoring Dr. Schweitzer chronicles the highlights of his life as a philosopher, theologian and doctor. The work that he began in Africa continues in his honor and the story of his service to humanity is certain to inspire our thoughts too.
There is a unique style of ceramic produced in Kaysersberg just below the shadows of the chateau. And the imposing cathedral is not to be missed for its art. You can stop at the tourism office for a map and audio guide of Kaysersberg’s nearly 30 historical sites with most dating to the 15th century. Afterward enjoy lunch at one the many sidewalk cafés, along with local crafts shops and a permanent market near the old linen mill.
Sigolsheim— The church of St Peter and Paul features an exposition of acrylic paintings depicting 12 Biblical scenes from the Garden of Eden to John’s Revelations as part of the Road of Sacred Art in Alsace. A vineyard path connects Kientzheim with Sigolsheim for walking or cycling. Of course, wine tasting is handy here too.
Bennwihr, Mittelwihr and Beblenheim – Each of these towns are a bit off the “beaten path” among tourists and wine tasters, so they tend to be more relaxed places to enjoy tastings. They can be reached easily by bike utilizing cyclepaths from Sigolsheim and Zellenberg.
Kientzheim— Le Musée du Vignoble et des Vins d’Alsace is located within the ramparts of town, so we recommend a visit and wine tasting tour of the André Blanck et ses fils winery.
DAY 8 – Riquewihr to Rouffach
Our vines and villages tour continues today with a wine tasters delight or a climber’s treat, but of course you could do both too. The segment from Ammerschwirh to Wintzenheim is one of the more congested and potentially confusing routes of the tour, so take your time and keep a watchful eye out for the bike route signs. Once you get to Wintzenheim the navigation becomes easier as you will rejoin the Route du Vins all the way to Rouffach. Start the day with a little bit of vineyard riding, then climb into the Vosges mountains for a quiet forested ride to the top of the Collet du Linge. The top of this ridge was the scene of fierce fighting between France and Germany during the First World War. A short distance away is the French Memorial and burying field of the French fighters. We stopped at the crossroads during an intense thunderstorm while detailing the route. After the storm we walked among the crosses marking the memory of fallen soldiers as the sun began to shine. An older couple also walked among the crosses, but it felt as if they knew some of the fallen. Not a word was said as tears were shed.
Descending into Munster on amazing roads soon reminds us of the joyous wonder of cycle-therapy, Lunch in town to enjoy local cheese is suggested. Leaving Munster, we follow a cyclepath down valley (see details below) to the base of our final climb of the day. The top of the Col du Firstplan leads us to a beautiful descent into Gueberschwihr; there is a magnificent vineyard vista high above the village, so stop to enjoy the view.
DAY 9 – Rouffach environs options
The town of Rouffach is well situated to explore Colmar, walk thru vineyards, relax by the pool and spa or follow any one of the nearby bike routes across the valley or thru the vineyards.
Colmar— A short train ride away from Rouffach lies Colmar; no cars or bikes needed today. Details provided at our welcome dinner meeting.
One day may not be enough time to follow the entire “tourist trail”, but one can always try. There are gardens to stroll, pedestrian areas to explore, museums to visit, a canal to follow, cheese shops to tempt your senses, wine shops to sample, architecture to enjoy and cathedrals and art to ponder.
The creator of our Statue of Liberty is from Colmar, which lends a special affinity for Americans. Little Venice is adjacent to the central pedestrian zone; there are even boatmen plying the waters. Lots of open space and plazas afford great angles to photograph the diverse architectural styles of this historic town.
Since no visit to Colmar is complete without an unhurried dinner, we suggest dinner in town before catching a train back to Rouffach.
We offer a few of suggestions:
Atelier du Peintre – 1 Rue Schaungauer; 03 89 29 51 52
La Maison Rouge – 9 Rue des Ecoles: 03 89 23 52 22
Le 3 – 4 rue de l’Eglise: 03 89 29 15 74
Eguisheim— A wonderful village where tasting wine is a way of life for the locals. Perhaps this is how Ribeauvillé was before popularity and fame arrived. It is a short ride from Rouffach or we will happily shuttle you thru the vineyards with our van. The restaurant Au vieux Porche, 16 rue des Trois Chateaux – 03 89 24 01 90 is highly recommended; suggested to call ahead to reserve a table.
DAY 10 – Rouffach to Thann
The wine route may be the most prominent tourist route of the Alsace region, but the Route des Cretes is perhaps the most scenic “ridge surfing” route in France. The entire route stretches 92km from Sainte Marie aux Mines near Haut Koenigsbourg to Cernay near our destination of Thann. We have enjoyed a few “teasers” with our rides into the Vosges, but today we commit to riding a portion of the Route des Cretes with views to the east and to the west. La Grand Ballon will be a great location for lunch on the terrase before descending to the valley leading to Thann.
Distance ~ 42.5km; likely <300m climbing
The vineyard route follows the same directions as the Route des Cretes route until Lautenbach, then from Guebwiller continues on the Route du Vins to Cernay and Thann. It can be a bit confusing near Guebwiller, so relax and take your time seeking out the sometimes obscure cyclepath signage. From Wuenheim the riding becomes more relaxing, while the vineyards are a bit more sparse for several kilometers leading into Ufholtz. Be careful following cyclepaths to Cernay Centre Ville; it is better to simply follow D35 to Vieux-Thann.
DAY 11 – Thann loop Route des Cretes redux
Once again, we have numerous choices in what to do, where to go and what to see from our Thann base of departure. For those who chose the Route des Cretes scenic ridge ride, we have special Route Forrestiere approach climb to the Route des Cretes. We follow the Route du Vins north to Wuenheim (reverse of vines & villages route), where we ride uphill thru town to follow Route Forrestiere to Col Anic; the road is quiet, shady and tiny—enjoy!! At Col Anic follow signs to Cernay; you will begin climbing shortly after turning onto D431. The climbing is not too steep, so enjoy the views as you ride uphill thru pastures. The final descent to Uffholtz affords spectacular views of the Rhine Valley from the Vosges to the Schwarzwald. If the skies are clear and the air is dry, then you can see all the way into the Bernese Oberland and the high peaks of the Swiss Alps.
Mulhouse— A quick train ride into Mulhouse takes us to a city with three fantastic museums; museums depicting the pinnacle of engineering excellence and art.
Musée EDF Electopolis – Learn about the discovery, generation and uses of electricity since beginning in the XVIII th century. Have fun with the hands-on interactive discovery and learning displays. Located adjacent the Cité du Train.
Musée francais du Chemin de Fer (Cité du Train)— The perfect place for all of us who loved riding trains before we learned to fly. Climb aboard a small train for a guided journey from the early trains of 1844 to the TGV of today. Discover how a steam engine powered huge locomotives for hauling people and freight.
Musée national Cité de l’Automobile (Schlumpf Collection)— The museum for anyone curious about the development of early automobiles to the magnificent machines of today. Over 400 cars are depicted with audioguide descriptions and historical information.
Thann—the Museum of Wine has an excellent exhibit detailing the geological formations and zones of the Rhine river valley. Well worth a visit.
Lac de Kruth-Wildenstein pleasant valley ride- Located at the foot of the Ballons des Alsace, Thann affords several riding options into the mountains or thru nearby valleys.
DAY 12 – Thann to Bartenheim
Thann marks the southern portal of the Route du Vins, and today marks our last riding day thru Alsace. The cyclepaths, cycleroutes and roads on offer will ease us back to our point of beginning. We begin with farm roads leading to the Rhone-to-Rhin canal, then we meander thru wheat and corn fields to ridgesurf one last time to Bartenheim. The riding is gentle and the scenery ever changing; a wonderful way to chat while riding one more day in the amazing Alsace region.
DAY 13 – Basel airport transfers
Transer to EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (BSL). After meeting new friends, tons of riding and huge stories to tell your friends and family back home!!!!!!! Until next time BONJOUR!!!
